August 9, 2013

Cuenca, Ecuador: One Year Later

Paseo de los Niños on Christmas Eve (2012)
Cuenca, Ecuador

Well, it's been over a year.

In May, our landlady came by with the new lease on our apartment. We signed up for another year and will most likely sign next year, too. Even though there are a couple of things we would change if we could, we basically like our apartment, love our landlady, have wonderful neighbors, and the location cannot be beat.

It is astonishing how fast the year has passed. Getting settled in a new country is one busy whirlwind, full of visa issues, learning a new language (still working on that  and may be working on it for the rest of my life), making new friends, figuring out the food and other products, and generally learning how to live in a different country than the one you lived in for over fifty years.


Since receiving our cedulas (national identity card), life has simmered down to a routine that doesn't revolve around bureaucratic paperwork. We traveled to Quito, seen some more of Cuenca, hung out with various friends, signed up with CouchSurfers and hosted a few young travelers, and played host to four sets of houseguests: my BFF and her husband, friend Elizabeth with her son Austin and his girlfriend Aleina (who now rent our SF apartment), my friend Pamela (from D.C.), and our friend Philly, who we hadn't seen in around thirty years (big surprise  Philly lives in Bolivia now, just around the continental corner).

When we were in Quito, we discovered an amazing place to stay -- Community Hostel. Run by four Willamette University graduates (one of whom is Ecuadorian and encouraged the others to start a business in Ecuador), the hostel represents the best of Ecuador mixed with a degree of American ingenuity. We heartily recommend them as a place to stay when touring Ecuador. And by the time you get here, they may have the microbrewery up and running. (They did go to school in Oregon, after all...)

Attractions, Festivals, etc.

The hummingbird statues 
at Otorongo Plaza
In our spring (U.S. fall), the city hosted a collection of giant hummingbird statues. They were amazing and fortunately were a part of Cuenca life for a month at an outdoor venue before returning to their home in Quito.

Ecuador has many national and regional festivals. Sure keeps everything lively and colorful. One of the biggest is 3 de Noviembre (Cuenca's independence day). The entire town is a giant party  really good fun. We had a couple of CouchSurfers in town for that celebration (Eva and Ailina). It was great having all that young energy in the house. After Eva finished her internship at an orphanage in Quito, she returned for a couple of nights on her way to do the Grand Tour of South America. In between times, she sent her friend Mikki to us  another European doing the Grand Tour.

Many of the festivals are religious in nature and often revolve around the children. Christmas Eve is a several hour Paseo de los Niños (Parade of the Children). There are floats, and the children are in various types of religious and ethnic costumes. It is a fabulous way to spend Christmas Eve.

May 29, 2013

Oh, Those Crazy Modern Victorians: Or What the Heck Is Steampunk?

Amber Johnson rockin’ the goggles made for her by Ian N. Campbell
Steampunk World’s Fair 2013
Whether or not you are familiar with the term Steampunk, you have encountered its influence in popular entertainment and fashion.
For the record, the term Steampunk refers to a subgenre of science fiction and fantasy literature in which Victorian aesthetics combine with futuristic technology to create a world full of brass, mechanical gears, goggles, clocks, and steam-powered machinery.
Though there exist Victorian fantasy novels written by the greats — H. G. Wells and Jules Verne — the actual term Steampunk is relatively recent. Coined by writer K. W. Jeter in a light-hearted 1987 comment to Locus magazine, the letter read:
Personally, I think Victorian fantasies are going to be the next big thing, as long as we can come up with a fitting collective term for [Timothy] Powers, [James P.] Blaylock and myself. Something based on the appropriate technology of the era; like ‘steam-punks’, perhaps.
It took a while, but it seems that this prediction may actually come to pass.
[Full disclosure time: As you might have guessed by the similarity in our names, I am related in some way to K. W. Jeter. He is, in fact, my husband. And, of course, I am inordinately proud of him. However, although I never review his books because of the obvious conflict, it would be remiss of me to exclude him from this article.]
Recently, the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal, along with other national publications, have featured Steampunk topics relating to fashion and Victorian martial arts. Additionally, IBM has predicted that Steampunk will be one of the biggest trends in 2013 to 2015.
Possibly. There are signs. Apart from its literary influences, Steampunk has begun to impact current fashion. Sarah Burton’s new spring collection for Alexander McQueen, for example, references Victorian fashion with her emphasis on corsetry, full-skirted gowns, and specialty millinery. In Paris, John Galliano’s 2010 collection at Christian Dior featured lace, corsets, and top hats. Most significant is Pantone’s announcement that brown (a color much beloved by the Steampunk fashionistas) is one of the top colors for fall 2013.
The entertainment industry also is giving a nod to the genre. Television shows like Sanctuary and Warehouse 13, and the wildly popular Dr. Who, lean heavily on the Victorian “look.” Beyond the cable shows, even the networks are getting into the act. For example, the show Castle highlighted the subculture in its 2010 episode “Punked.” Also, films like The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen and the Disney animated film Atlantis: The Lost Empire are Victorian in design and period.
The Conventions
As is usual with parts and portions within the science fiction and fantasy community, aficionados of a particular enthusiasm gather together to celebrate their passions. Star Trek conventions, the big San Diego ComicCon and its various offshoots, and the more general World Science Fiction and World Fantasy conventions, along with the general regional conventions, attract thousands of people every year.
As one of the newest entries on the specialty conference scene, the various Steampunk conventions are a combination of topic-relevant panels, music, art, crafts and other demonstrations, Victorian-themed teas and absinthe tastings, and, of course, the costumes.
After attending two of the most prominent Steampunk conventions — Steamcon in Seattle, held in the fall, and the Steampunk World’s Fair, held in New Jersey each spring — I have to say that this is some of the most inventive costuming I have encountered in years. Plus, the craftsmanship is at an incredibly high level. These are not tatty Halloween costumes off the rack. They are often wearer-made, or at the least, handmade by people working within a narrow area of expertise. Beautiful hats by true milliners, scientific instrument and faux weapon accessories, and fantastic jewelry and leatherwork create an ongoing visual feast.
Madame Pâte à Glacer models her new hat
All Are Welcome
Another thing I have noticed is that this is an all-ages, all-comers enthusiasm. From babies in decked-out prams to older people sporting canes or wheelchairs studded with gears, clock mechanisms, and brass, this is a party that includes everyone. While I readily understand the older generations’ affinity for the event, and we all know that babies exist for the wearing of funny hats, I am intrigued by the number of teens and preteens in attendance at these events.
So I asked. One young woman, Mirabelle von Hedwig (aka Ronan York) who is an active member of the group The Steampunk Family said:
Younger people enjoy Steampunk because it is a way to be amazing. They can learn how to make and do cool things and be recognized for them. Imagine a group of tiny threads, thousands of them, constantly weaving together and unraveling, then repeating the process. Now label it. Its name is Steampunk, a place where there is always room for a new thread.
Steampunk is a live culture, constantly changing and evolving, Because of this, no one is “bigger, better, or more experienced.” You can have been Steampunk for years, as I have (I first went to a convention as Steampunk five years ago when I was seven years old) and still not know its full mystery. I know I don’t!
Additionally, as ‘children,’ we often are grouped together as one unit, but in Steampunk we are amazing individuals.

For costuming, 
it’s all in the details.
In addition, attendees have begun to realize that the Victorian Era touched many cultures. This was the time in history that the sun never set on the British Empire, and many countries were influenced by the arts and sciences of the period. Therefore, Steampunk has attracted many people of color and myriad ethnicities who have become an integral part of the Steampunk community.

The women, of course, look lovely in all the pretty dresses and intrepid female explorer outfits. But a big plus for the Steampunk enthusiasts — the men look terrific in this stuff! Especially the tall and portly men. Victorian menswear and its various permutations very much suit the guys.

Professor Verdigris Wetware takes tea.
(Notice the clock detailing on the hat.)
The Future
This success, however, has highlighted some possible problems. What has been a predominately small, out-of-the-mainstream enthusiasm is catching the attention of big media. While there is a sense of pride in having created something so wonderful, there is also a fear that it all might be tarnished or even taken away by the corporate entities that run the film industry, television networks, and fashion.
We’ll see. My bet is that the true essence of Steampunk will escape the corporations. They will play with it for a while, move on to the next new thing, and then Steampunk will go back to those who truly love the genre.
And what does K. W. Jeter think of what has happened to “his” word?
Here’s the deal: I didn’t invent Steampunk. I did, however, bumble into coining the word “Steampunk.” There’s a lot of creativity, written and others, and just general fun that’s going on in regard to Victorian-themed fantasy and science fiction, and if a word I created has become attached as the portmanteau handle to all that, then I’m flattered. But it would still be going on, with or without that label. — K. W. Jeter
[For a representative gallery of Steampunk looks, go to the Flickr pages for The Steampunk Family.]

[Originally published at California Literary Review, May 29, 2013.]